That ’20s and ’30s Gatsby mood that Viard discussed in the preview was made manifest in filmy chiffon and organza dresses with uneven hems (high in the front, low in the back), and trailing scarf panels that drifted from the shoulder-a Coco Chanel device of the period. Meanwhile there will be no need to remove layers against the heat in her pant suits-the trouser legs are split at the side from mid-calf to upper thigh. Viard’s new take on the summer tweed Chanel suit features a skirt that doesn’t quite wrap around and reveals a lace or jagged feather dress underneath. Sure enough, the jacket’s form was working as perfectly as Kuskus. “I like the classic Chanel,” added Veilhan, “and I like sport and it’s funny to think that the Chanel tailleur is something you can wear for playing golf, or riding a horse.” To prove his point, the show opened with Monaco’s Princess Charlotte, dressed in a Chanel jacket, riding the beautiful eight year old Spanish bay horse Kuskus (that would explain the sand runway), first in an elegant “collected walk,” then a canter. “In fact, I found some notes from Karl in Rodchenko and Malevich books that he always gave me-so many books and documents with notes on details that could be used for embroidery and so on. Me, I can’t do that! He loves Constructivism, that kind of thing which is so Karl!” she continued. “I love his work and I needed someone to work with for the sets-the way Karl did. “I always wanted to work with him because he did something for Chanel jewelry 15 years ago in Place Vendome, a great installation,” Viard said. To set the scene, Viard reached out to the artist Xavier Veilhan whom she met at the home of their mutual friend, musician Sébastien Tellier. “I was inspired by the ’20s a little-the feathers, the fringe,” Viard continued, “the feminine side of the Constructivists, the girl inside!” It was a representation of what couture should be, the type of ensemble with an unfathomable beauty you couldn't have pictured in your wildest imagination but when you see it, you're so overcome all you can say is “whoa.“It’s a summer collection, so it’s very fresh, even with a lot of embroideries,” explained Chanel’s artistic director Virginie Viard during a fitting in the Chanel studios on the eve of the showing of her thistledown-light haute couture collection. While Schiaparelli's lion head dress divided the internet after setting it on fire, Rolland's gold gown appeared the very next day and seemed to unify every online person around the idea that the look was divine. He wanted to represent spiritual women, “dressed from the Bahia churches’ baroque.” And it appears that perhaps Rolland did have his mind on the Oscars after all, since he said that the entire collection was inspired by Marcel Camus's Oscar-winning Orfeu Negro, a 1960 adaptation of the Greek myth of Orpheus and Eurydice, set in a favela in Rio de Janeiro during Carnaval. In the show notes, Rolland wrote that the look was meant to represent the conquistadors’ gold bursting in the rising sun's light. This particular look was inspired by Brazil's patron saint, Nossa Senhora da Conceição Aparecida, whose original image is enshrined in the central high altar in Aparecida, Brazil. The Oscar statuette could, quite frankly, never, ever. She was the heavenly sculpture of a god come to life. Gold bangles twisted around her arms like wire. A teardrop cut was carved out at the center for her face and a sliver of torso, reminding everyone she was ethereal but still earthly. It was the finale look, appearing like liquid gold frozen mid-pour, gushing out from the model's shoulders and creating a glistening cloqué lamé tent to shield her from the mortals in the front row. Surely they're all enlightened souls who aren't thinking about anything as petty as a revenge dress-but what if they are? A suggestion: Consider turning heads in the phenomenal Stéphane Rolland gold dress that debuted on the couture runway yesterday in Paris. It's fun to consider what the nominees will wear, but maybe even more fun to think about how those who were snubbed could make a dramatic entrance. Yesterday, the 2023 Oscar nominations were announced, and red carpet outfit predictions quickly followed.
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